Called by hickey this morning at 6am "Get out of bed, the Bra is pumping, offshore, and uncrowded!!" I was there in 5 minutes and Hickey was already in the water. While I was getting changed I saw Howie get a couple of nice ones in the dunny bowl, and thought "That'll do me". As is usually the case a good surfer, like Howie, can make a sucky sand dredging pit look like a nice calm section. I caught a couple of sets there, had a chat, but then moved on to find the Hickster.
Watched Hickey get some pearler rights, and mostly sat around getting the shits with everyone paddling then pulling back or just going straight. Managed to hook into a couple of ok ones, but finshed with a gem ... Took of on a set, 3-4ft range, pulled in from take off and come out pretty quick. I lined up the next section which looked like it was going to smoothly open a bit. To my surprise it hit the inside bank and jacked into a hollow surfer eating machine. While I was uncasually cruising through the waves large intestine it occured to me that I was about to suffer, and suffer I did. First I was dragged straight over the falls into the bank and jarred my arm pretty hard. Then I was sucked over the falls again and held down for a while. Then my board hit me and I was dragged under water for a bit. When I popped up I could barely paddle back in, but it was all worth it for the time spent in that blood bank green room.
Get out there and get sick.